Everything you need to know about keeping jumping spiders happy and healthy — written from our own hands-on experience raising them here at Tiny Tangle Spooders. Most of what we raise falls in the Phidippus genus (like the regal jumping spider), so that's our main frame of reference below, but the basics apply broadly across the jumping spiders most commonly kept as pets.
Getting Started with Jumping Spiders
Jumping spiders (family Salticidae) are active, daytime hunters with excellent eyesight — they stalk and pounce on prey rather than catching it in a web, which is a big part of why they're so fun to watch and interact with. They're generally low-maintenance, don't need a huge footprint, and are considered one of the more approachable spiders for a first-time invertebrate keeper.
- Typical lifespan is about 1–3 years, with females usually outliving males.
- They're solitary by nature — never house two together, even "just for now." They will cannibalize each other.
- A new arrival, especially a tiny spiderling, does best with a quiet settling-in period before much handling.
Enclosure & Habitat Setup
Size the enclosure to the spider's life stage — too much open space can actually stress out a small spiderling and make it harder for them to find food.
- Spiderlings: A small deli cup, vial, or similar tiny enclosure with a few footholds is plenty.
- Juveniles: Step up to a medium enclosure (roughly palm-sized) as they grow.
- Adults: A taller enclosure in the 5–10 inch range works well — jumping spiders climb constantly and appreciate vertical space more than floor space.
Whatever the size, a few things matter at every stage: good cross-ventilation (small mesh-covered air holes on opposite sides), a shallow layer of substrate that's kept barely damp (never soggy — wet substrate invites mold and mites), and some cork bark, twigs, or artificial leaves for climbing, anchoring silk lines, and building a molting retreat.
Feeding & Diet
Feed appropriately sized live prey — as a rule of thumb, roughly the size of the spider's own body or smaller.
- Spiderlings: Flightless fruit flies or pinhead-sized feeders, offered 2–3 times a week.
- Juveniles: Small crickets or roaches every 3–4 days.
- Adults: A couple of medium prey items once or twice a week.
Remove any uneaten prey after about 24 hours so it doesn't stress or injure the spider. The best feeding gauge isn't a strict schedule — it's the abdomen. If it looks noticeably thinner than the widest part of the carapace (the "head" section), it's time to feed more often. A light misting of the enclosure a couple of times a week gives them water droplets to drink from; larger juveniles and adults can also have a small, shallow water dish.
Molting: What to Expect
Jumping spiders molt repeatedly as they grow, and it's completely normal — but it's also the moment they're most vulnerable. Watch for the signs: a dropoff in appetite, a duller or cloudier appearance, and especially the spider spinning a thick silk "molting hammock" or retreat.
Once you see that retreat, stop feeding and leave the spider alone — no poking, no checking, no rearranging the enclosure. Recovery time after a molt varies: spiderlings bounce back within about a day, juveniles take one to three days, and adults can take up to a week. Wait until you see them back out and actively moving before offering food again. Finding a leftover exoskeleton (exuvia) is a good sign, not a cause for concern — it means the molt went well.
Handling & Safety
Jumping spiders aren't aggressive and generally tolerate gentle handling well, but "gentle" is the key word. Let the spider walk hand-to-hand rather than grabbing or restraining it, keep sessions short, and always handle over a soft, enclosed surface — they're called jumping spiders for a reason, and an unexpected leap off a table is the most common way spiders go missing.
- Avoid handling right before or after feeding, and never during a molt.
- Wash your hands before and after handling.
- Keep handling sessions supervised, especially with kids.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are jumping spiders dangerous? No. Like nearly all spiders they do have venom, but it's medically insignificant to humans — most keepers describe a bite (which is rare and usually only happens if a spider feels trapped) as comparable to a mild bee sting. As with any bite or sting, keep an eye out for unusual reactions and see a doctor if something seems off.
Do they spin webs to catch food? No — they hunt actively by sight and pounce on prey. They do use silk, though: for molting retreats, safety draglines while climbing and jumping, and nighttime shelters.
Can I keep two spiders together? We'd strongly advise against it. They're solitary and will see a housemate as either competition or a meal.
Mine won't eat — is something wrong? Usually not. A pre-molt slowdown is the most common reason for a spider to refuse food. Make sure the prey is appropriately sized, and be patient — most spiders resume their normal appetite within a few days.
Have a question we didn't cover here? Reach out through our Contact page — we're always happy to talk spiders.